Hello everyone. Yes thats right this it the promised second installment detailing my amazing adventures in Australia. Hope you enjoy reading it, especially as it has ended up being rather long.
Anyway, if you are all sitting comfortably. I shall begin.
Part 2 Subtitled "David does the South West"
Having recouperated from my ordeal in Wongan Hills I spent my time back in Perth enjoying the fruits of civilisation. Having formulated a rough plan to tour the south west of OZ I settled down at (famous in backpacker circles) Tony's wednesday bar-b-q. A good time was had by all (as usual) and the next day I booked a bus ticket out of there and then went to "Scarborough Beach" to catch some rays.
I got up bright and early and caught the bus from Perth down the coast to Bunbury. It was only an hour and a half journey but long enough to experience a brief (wait for it, ) rain shower. I know, I know, this wasn't what I was paying for, but as I was to discover it was a sign of things to come. Anyhow the rain soon stopped and the bus arrived in unbury station. Nao as you may recall from Part 1 I have found Australia somewhat wanting for signs. Well this trend continued and nowhere at the bus station was there a sign or map or any indication of which direction the town centre was. Infact there wasn't even a pavement to walk along. Having circled the area 3 times looking puzzled I sit down and get out the YHA book to examine their minute map for clues. The problem being that the YHA map showed the hostel but nothing else. Noticing my confusion a local in a Ute' asked if I was lost and could he help. So I explain I want the hostel and show him the map. So he said "Well I have 15mins before I have to pick up so & s. I will give you a lift". Anyway he seemed a decent chap and off we drive only to discover that he hasn't a clue where he is going, but then who could blame him, I mean the sign posts are both rare and hard to read and the map was useless. Anyway to cut a long journey short we find the hostel (rather by chance) and he goes on his way. So I guess Ozzies really are as friendly as people say!
Bunbury is sometimes described as the capital of the SW and has the 2nd largest population in WA. So you would expect something fairly major (and if you asked an Australian they probably think it is). The town pleasant and airy but is best described as a rather deserted Whitby without the fish and chip shops on the sea front. So having arrived, I set off camera in hand to "do" the sights. I saw the lookout tower and the lighthouse and these gigantic silo's that are being converted in to a hotel. I wandered down their beaches to Geographe Bay. I walked on the black bassalt outcrops that protrude from the soft pristine white sand, returning to the hostel via the "cappuchino strip" (I shaln't comment). Later that evening after dinner I set off to the beach again to try to get one of the much talked about sunsets on film. Sadly there was a ridge of thick cloud sat on the horizon so I only got a "yellow" sunbeams + clouds picture (and the next night was worse). Now, Bunbury is also known as a dolphin viewing area, so the next morning I get up early and rush off to the spot where they often turn up. It wasn't a daily event so I was surprised when after only half an hour another of the dolphin spotters pointed out something moving in the sea. There was only one and it didn't stay long but it was still pretty cool to see.
Having exhausted Bunbury's charms I moved on next to Dunsborough, or more correctly Quindalup. Before I even got off of the bus I knew I was going to like it there. You could see the sea and the sand and when I got to the hostel I found that it was built quite literally ON the beach. All you have to do is walk the 15m to the end of the garden and you are on the white sand. The sea there is extremely calm and shallow. So much so that you can walk 20m out in to the sea and still only be wet at the knee (depending how tall you are). Having spent a day or so lazing about on the beach I found a guy who rented out boats and canoes etc. So in no time at all I am sat rather precariously in this moist canoe paddling about in the clear blue Indian Ocean. I paddled out to probably 90-100m from the shore and could still have stood on the bottom without getting my hair wet. Further out to sea (where the tide seemed to want me to be) the waves picked up and splashed alarmingly against the sides of my flimsy craft. Some of them were nearly 10cm high and I was worried that I may be swept out of my canoe in to the ocean (and then I would have to walk back). And to make matters worse there was something swimming menacingly beneath me. Sadly that was the only fish I saw all day. Now the other reason to come to Dunsborough is to visit Cape Naturaliste so the next morning I hire a bike and set off on the 14km ride to the cape lighthouse. It's odd you know, Australia is almost totally flat untill you get on a bike. Anyway I make it to the cape and photograph the lighthouse (it's the done thing) and then set off to walk all the little paths and trails around the bush covered cliff top tht is the 'Cape'. I hadn't gone more than 500m before there is a rustling from the bushes and a kangaroo hops in to view and stops and looks at me. Clearly it is posing for a photo and I didn't want to offend, so I takes the picture and it hops off (satisfied?). The views from the cape of the crashing waves and beaten rocks were brilliant but the undeterable following of flies that I attracted was far from brill' and I have to admit I lost my temper with them. Luckily I managed to leave them befind for a while at Shelly Bay where I had lunch. Sadly the sea dragons were not in their caves during my visit. I returned to my bike and cycled off to see the much recommended "Sugar Loaf Rock". This was rather like so many Australian "sights"; that is to say it was a rock with a name, but it was a nice ride there, very scenic.
Next on my wild tour was Augusta. I was sad to leave Dunsborough and its YHA on the beach but was encouraged by what I had read about the one in Augusta. The hostel there had won the "best YHA in OZ" award for the last 4 years in a row, so I was expecting something pretty special. I arrived and almost missed the hostel due to the lack of signs (again) but I found it in the end and was immediately put off the place by the officious woman who insisted on showing me round. It was a purpose built hostel and was very very very clean and tidy. It was also very very quiet and curiously the only place in all of Augusta that wasn't booked solid for the Easter weekend. Anyway having settled in I went to the pristine kitchen to make a cuppa and I bumped in the Bernard. I met Bernard in Dunsborough when I was introduced to him due to us sharing a last name; I only mention him now as he features later in the sub-story (or "adventurette") "Escape from Augusta".
I had 2 reasons for visiting Augusta, firstly it is near another cape, Cape Leeuwin which I wished to visit as it is where the Indian and Southern oceans meet and to see the sting-rays which are attracted to the shore line by fishermen cleaning fish. As this cape was only 9km from town I decided to walk there and after a scenic coastal walk which made up the first part of the journey I joine dthe coast road up to the lighthouse and cape. Upon arriving I sat on the well worn rocks behind the lighthouse and watched the crashing waves foaming against it, around my feet (yup, I was a little too close to the edge). Shortly thereafter the weather turned and threatened rain, and seeing as I had a 9km walk back I decided to get a move on. Sadly, I think due to the influx of people for Easter, I saw no sting rays (or seals). I soon discovered that being in Augusta was like being stuck in a very clean lift. And so naturally I decided to leave.
"Escape from Augusta" (sub-story)
On the surface Augusta was a pleasant enough place, a bright friendly sea side town, same as any other. Or so I thought. I had arrived 2 days previous and the town didn't reveal its dark underbelly untill I made plans to leave. It seemed that once there, you didn't leave. I first found this out when I went to book th ebus ticket for the next day, but the excuse was that the Easter holl's had got in the way and therefore I couldn't get on a bus to Pemberton 'till the tuesday, some 3 and a half days later. I didn't think much of it at the time but looking back the womans voice was strangely expressionless, hollow and mechanical as if she were ... possessed! Not pleased though I was, I accepted this and booked the ticket but I had the haunting suspicion that come tuesday there would be another reason and then another and another. This place was getting to me. I went back to the hostel to book the extra nights I was going to have to stay. The guy behind the counter had crazy grey curly hair that was just jumbled about on his head like a carpet of grey serpents. He had wild eyes and an evil grin. Worse still he always shouted. I booked the extra nights and just as I was turning to leave he shouted "There wasn't any noise last night, was there?". Noise? I thought. An odd hang up for a man who always shouts. And it was a hang up, he was obsessed, everyone said so. I spent the afternoon despirately trying to find something worth doing but to no avail. I knew I had to get out of there. But how? Later that night I was explaining my plight to Bernard (who coincidentally was in the same dorm as me). Bernard Smith was English, a retired surveyor and an all round good egg. When I explained my situation he said that he was also going to Pemberton next on his trip and he was going the next morning as he had a car. "You can come with me if you like?" he said. If I like? Of course I like, I was despirate to get out. Naturally it wasn't as simple as that, I had things to sort out before I left and I didn't want the powers that be to discover my intentions incase the conspiracy against me continued. I got up early next morning and quietly packed up my stuff, I crept to the office to cancle my extra nights and to try to book in to Pemberton. It was touch an go for a minute as the snake haired psycho phoned through to the hostel in Pemberton; after all it was Easter Sunday. I tried to follow the conversation but he had broken in to a strange Australian jive. Finishing the call he looked up from beneath his thick brow and gave me an evil toothless grin, "Yep, that's OK" he shouted "surprised there was space, it's only a small hostel" he added dryly. He refunded the money and I left, packing my stuff in to Bernards hire car, we drove off, the sun breaking through the cloud as we passed the town boundry. (End of Sub-Story)
Pemberton is in the heart of what is know as "Tall Tree" country, and I could see why. Its easy to spot when you arrive in tall tree country as all you can see for miles and miles are (wait for it...) tall trees! This made a refreshing change from the deserts and beaches and also offered the opportunity to climb the legendaty(?) fire look-out trees. These trees for those who don't know are exceptionally tall Karri trees (which have very straight trunks which maintain uniform thickness almost to the top) with metal spikes jammed in to them in an upwards spiral to a look-out platform at the top of the tree. The first of these trees I encountered (and there are 3 in the area) was the Bicentenial tree which is the highest of them. THese trees look pretty daunting from the ground but once you start climbing up them, you are at the top before you know it and the views are pretty good (obviously). Of course then you have to climb down again and after climbing 68m in to the sky and 68m back to the ground you suddenly realise that its quite hard work.
The YHA in Pemberton is certainly the place for peace and quiet as it is 9km from town (and everything else) and is in the middle of the forrest. It consists of about 6 old wooden chalets each of which is self contained with enough space for 14 people 7-8mice and an army of ants and mozzies. So its fair to say that it has rustic charm without any of those bothersome creature comforts. But with log fires to keep you warm and lots of fresh air its a welcome change from Augusta's relative sterility. The next few days were filled with forrest walks, picnics and climbing tall trees, not to mention learning an auful lot about the australian logging industry. I said goodbye to Bernard, who left to go back westward and set off again myself, this time to the coastal edge of tall tree country, Walpole.
I got to Walpole late, as the bus from Pemberton was late and so the only food shop in town had just closed. Now I have come to realise that in OZ there are only 2 classifications for a settlement. It is either a Town or a City. Walpole counts amongst the towns and is basically a row of shops along the main road and a few smaller roads perpendicular to this which have houses on for the 450 strong population. [if you moved Ilkley to OZ it would be a City!]. Anyhow I was greeted off the bus by the hostel owner who drove me (the 250m) back to the hostel. Nice place and due to a lul in business after Easter I had a dorm to myself. Now in this hostel the owners have a particular liking for 3D puzzles (wooden ones) which kept me busy most evenings. Also th emanageress loves to play cards and on a couple of occasions we were still up after midnight playing Rummy (well there isn't any other evening entertainment in the town). Walpoles main attraction is the "Tree Top Walk" which is a 600m long metal gangway built amongst the canopy of a giant tingle and karri forrest, and in some places is 40m off of the ground. I have to say it is very impressive and an encounter with an 'Ewok' wouldn't have seemed out of place. There is also a ground based walk through the area known as the "Valley of the Giants" (the giants being trees) where you can see some huge trees and even walk through some of them. A combination of fire damage and fungal consumption causes the lower section of some of the oldest largest trees to be hollowed out, but leave the tree alive and standing strong. (Most odd.)
After a few more hours playing Rummy and Poker I set off again on the bus to Albany and arrived in the dark shadow of a major lightning attack, which was rather impressive. Unfortunately it made the sky so dark that I couldn't find where I was going (the street lights not having come on yet) and guess what, I got lost finding the hostel. Anyway 40mins of lightning dodging later I arrived (relieved) and took an early night to let the storm blow over. Next day I explored the locale, finding it oddly pleasing to be back in civilisation again. I did the museum and a replica of a boat called the Amity (which was nice). Now some of the main attractions in the area are called the "Gap" and the "Natural Bridge". Both are on the same bit of coast, the gap is basically a gap in the cliff where the sea rushes in and splashes and foams about a lot, which doesn't sound all that great but is surprisingly impressive. The bridge is basically speaking a rock bridge between 2 bits of cliff where the sea had eroded underneath and befind leaving a brifge like structure. This is also reasonably impressive & of course despite the strong blustery wind I just HAD to walk accross it; a practice that is not encouraged. Anyway I survived. Whilst there I bumped in to 4 people I had been tree planting with, which was nice, and they informed me that it didn't get any better after I left.
The only thing left to do in Albany (considering the frequent storms and ANZAC festivities) was to visit Dog Rock which is presuimably impressive enough in local oppinion to warrant its inclusion on all the tourist maps. Now I expect you can guess that it was supposed to look like a dog, or more precisely a labrador's head. Well I didn't waste any film on it if you catch my drift
So next it was on to my final planned stop on my tour of SW OZ. Esperance. It was a 6 hour bus trip with a change of busses after 4. At which point I bumped in to another of the ex-tree planters Pascal. I knew he would be in Esperance that day but didn't expect to meet him en-route. (He is the guy who took the picture I tried to send but no one recieved). Esperance is a nice place, but we clearly arrived 'off season'. The museum there has bits of the NASA Skylab that fell to earth in 1979 over Esperance. At which time NASA were unconcerned as they are reported to have said that the area was inhabited by nothing but kangaroos, much to the irritation of the locals who fined NASA $400 for littering.
On saturday Pascal and I hired a car (or a Wreck as it is locally known) and set off to explore the local beuty spots. We started at Capr LeGrande national park and soon found Cape LeGrande beach. Now that's a NICE beach! Incidentally, everywhere you go in the Esperance area it is difficult not to be fascinated by the easily visible islands of the Recherche Archipelago, they are a very beutiful and somewhat romantic backdrop which surely causes Kodak's profits to rise. After the beach we went off to climb a huge conical granite hill called Frenchmans Peak. It is a steep climb up bare solid granite and at the top there is a sort of cave that goes from one side to the other through the "peak". Great views but even better exercise. Also the presence of easily antagonised swarms of bees keeps you on your toes. Next on the list of "must see" places were a series of bays and coves the most naotable of which is Lucky Bay. This is a prett and spectacular bay of calm deep blue sea and island vistas but its most famous characteristic is in the sand. It isn't the best sand in the world but through som etrickery of nature it squeeks when you walk on it. Yes it really Squeeks!(you never have a dictaphone when you need one!)
After lunch we set off to do the Great Ocean Drive much of which is along the clifs offering even more spectacular views of the sea, beach and islands (Oh, and a wind farm(?) ). The first thing on the drive however is a lake called "Pink Lake" because it is sometimes, due to bacteria, salt concentration and sunlight, turned pink. When I was there it wasn't at all pink nor particularly wet. All in all a good day.
Thats about the end of the SW tour. Tomorrow I go on a boat trip around the archipelago to see the wildlife and then in the afternoon I get the bus across the Nullabor Plane to Port Augusta (25 hours later).
David